The Randall Collector

The grain and character of the materials being discussed have a bearing on how susceptible they are in handling the expansion and contraction experienced from seasonal changes. Ivory, for example, if pinned to the tang may be more prone to cracking than a piece that is unpinned but capped at the butt. The support at both ends of the handle may, in some cases, prevent the occurrence. This is true for stag as well, but to a lesser degree, and Ebony wood, once offered as a customer option by RMK and representative of most “exotic” woods; although we agree that they all have their own unique characteristics.

Storage - Notwithstanding the fact that we are governed by our accommodations, most maintain or store their knives at home. Ideally there is a safe place in the house where knives can be kept and displayed, the latter being important so as to quickly identify if or when changes are taking place in the handle material. A secure room doubles as a safe place and one more easily climate controlled. Storage outside of the home, in a bank vault for example, is not uncommon, especially in the case of large or valuable collections. However, although the knives may be safe from theft, unless the premises maintains an acceptable humidity range, they may not be protected against expansion/contraction.

Preventative measures - We can anticipate seasonal climatic changes but cannot effectively compensate without a humidifier and a dehumidifier. Output on these appliances is both internally and externally controlled and they will run reliably if the filters are periodically changed on the former and in the case of a dehumidifier, that the temperature doesn’t get below 60°, where the coils tend to freeze up. These should both be considered essential, but we cannot rely on their internal mechanisms alone to maintain optimum levels.

Instruments - The next item is an instrument that will measure relative humidity and temperature in the space allocated. The Hydrometer measures humidity and indicates both the range and the specific level. They are available as a single unit or in a “weather station” hung on the wall that also displays a thermometer and barometer. They come with either analog or digital readings. The expense is not great and good instruments are very accurate. Hydrometers display a gauge that indicates the relative humidity percent in increments of 10. I have found that a setting of 50%, which is the normal range, to be about right for my requirements. This provides me with a bit more assurance that material already dry from age will not worsen and this level of humidity will not cause blade deterioration.

Routine care - Simple handling of the knife may provide oil (from the hand) to the material, but usually a supplement is called for. I use baby oil and apply it twice a year to Ivory and stag (not hardwoods). A little in the palm of the hand lightly rubbed on the entire handle and left to air dry will do the job. In the case of stag, I use a Q-tip, or small brush to reach the recesses. Some handles will absorb the oil immediately and I then reapply, while others will take a day or more to dry. If one enjoys handling the knives that he collects, then these routine precautions are not at all bothersome.

Wood is another matter and I am no expert. It’s possible that wood may crack due to “stresses,” but they will definitely open up when in a dry environment. I treat wood with Renaissance wax as it provides a nice sheen but probably doesn’t lend itself to nourishing the substance.

Filling cracks and splits - Some Ivory handles have cracked and expanded to the point where there is concern for stabilizing the handle in order to prevent it from totally separating. I once viewed a knife with a pinned handle that had a crack wide enough to insert a credit card. Some time later the crack had naturally closed. This was clearly the effect of extreme humidity levels.

Once we conclude that a split will not close when subjected to higher humidity, then a filling substance can be employed. Dental cement comes to mind as one medium that will bond the handle material together. Once done the cement prevents the material from further separation and represents a fix that lasts. Coloring the cement to match the pigment of the handle would enhance this procedure.

Transportation and Mailing - Sheathing the knife during transportation and/or mailing is a prudent thing to do from a safety standpoint. Additionally, tips can be bent over when they strike a hard object such as the inside of a suitcase. Beyond that, the sheath stabilizes the knife and secures the handle in place. Placing the sheathed knife in a knife case, or “rug” further serves to cushion the handle.

Air transportation will introduce dramatic climate changes. For handle materials like ivory, stag and wood, the precaution of using an airtight container, such as a Halliburton aluminum case with special seal provides an added degree of protection.

Sheath maintenance - An environment that is suitable for the knife will serve the sheath as well. Leather will dry out and many old sheaths that have survived with the knife are often in need of care. Brushing, cleaning off verdigris and routine sheath nourishment should be carried out with the same care as exercised for handle materials. Early brown and red logo snaps (glove snaps) tend to pull out if the leather is dry and care should be taken to prevent unnecessary snapping and unsnapping. I use a bit of cotton in the receiving snap to prevent inadvertent closing and usually leave the buttons unsnapped unless desired closed for photography.

In the case of a sheath requiring “major reconditioning,” I would suggest consulting an expert such as Grady McCotter of New Bern, NC.
Phone (252) 633-5697.

For other articles and comments about Randall Fighting Knives, visit the Archives section of this web site, or see Randall Fighting Knives in Wartime, by the author.

Robert Hunt
Randall Collector

© 2003 by Robert Hunt. All rights reserved.